A Practical Maelstrom

Too often, fashion is dictated by the prepostorously ostentatious worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, and the runway.  Fashion as art is understandable, but what about fashion as a practical means by which one can clothe themselves well?

Donrad Duncan's Ma.Strum is making waves in what is being touted as the future of fashion - practical menswear that is truly useful.  Duncan takes a nearly scientific approach to fashion, looking to aerospace, chemical industry, and even nature for ideas.  Duncan is revolutionary in that he views fashion as a product made up of fabrics that can serve a day-to-day purpose - lighter material, sweat-wicking design, and light-emitting fabric are among the tools he is using for the new menswear market.

Unsurprising?  Boring even?  Perhaps this is a commentary of the current state of the fashion industry, as it continues to evolve beyond catering to an elite, select customer set.  As Duncan comments, his goal in fashion design is the user, not a customer.  The user is one that will practically use the product daily as he rushes to work for a meeting in wild winter weather, not sashay in some impossible creation that will later hang in the Smithsonian as a work of art.  Don't get The Fashionomist wrong - such "art pieces" have an important place as well.  But Duncan's focus on the fashion of the common man is yet another plus point in the power of the people in influencing fashion's direction.  From the year of cheap chic's meteoric rise to an era where the masses dictate fashion design, fashion is in the midst of upheaval where costs are tumbling down in favor of those that will make the most use of fashion for its prime use:  to clothe oneself against the elements and as a means of propriety in society.

Ma.Strum's technical outerwear is quite expensive as of yet (some pieces run at 2000 British pounds) but the underlying mission of Duncan's line is powerful - what would a man wear that will be comfortable and useful?

*The Fashionomist*

Source:  http://www.cnbcmagazine.com/story/fashions-futurists/1511/1/

Keffiyah Coffin?

While perusing BBC on the London riots this morning, The Fashionomist came across a rather intriguing article on the keffiyah, that Palestinian headscarf made (in)famous by the late Yasser Arafat (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-14447485).

Surprisingly, there is only one keffiyah factory remaining in Palestinian territories, a dingy little factory in Hebron called Hibrawi Textiles.  Why is there only one factory producing the iconic headdress?  Globalization - China, Jordan, and Syria sell cheaper keffiyah at roughly half the cost of their Palestinian counterparts.

Life wasn't so gloomy at Hibrawi Textiles, even just a few years ago.  The factory saw a boom in business with the intifada, despite having begun humbly in the 1960s.  The rise of Mr. Arafat meant a corresponding rise in his trademark keffiyah, which found popularity among Palestinians who sought to attach themselves to the potent symbol of nationalistm.  The 1980s were a bustling time for Hibrawi, which saw 24-hour shifts and heady business, going from 2 to 15 machines and still being unable to meet demand.  But with the onslaught of similar quality foreign keffiyah, Hibrawi saw a decline in demand as their cheaper brethren snatched up the slowing demand.  Today, Hibrawi is back down to its 2 humming machines, worriedly looking at a future where they may cease to exist.

Once it became clear that Palestinian bred keffiyah was becoming an endangered item, Hibrawi set up a website imploring foreign customers to support their floundering business.  Non-resident Palestinians became involved, concerned the powerful symbolism behind the keffiyah were becoming extinct.  A failed attempt to set up sales in Kuwait was made, but all hope is not lost for Hibrawi.  It has a flourishing Facebook fan page and has garnered media attention for being the last remaining keffiyah factory.  Hibrawi cannot compete with Chinese products but attempts to market its keffiyah as the real deal, and it seems to be working - Hibrawi is back up to 8 machines and 70 keffiyah per day.

It is curious to The Fashionomist that the Palestinian Authority has not taken any interest in supporting the dying keffiyah industry.  As such a inimitable symbol of Palestinian nationalism, one would think a tariff or trade quota would be placed to protect the Palestinian product.  But the 1993 Oslo Accords inhibit such measures in the name of market liberalization.

Should a national product that is so tied to the history of a culture and its fight for independence be protected by the state?  The Fashionomist isn't sure.  The American flag waving jauntily in her front yard is very Chinese, and the markets today are so integrated, particularly in fashion (where every minor cost is integral in the production of a product) that true independence of a product is difficult, especially for a fledgling territory like Palestine.

The keffiyah is firmly in the hearts and minds of the Palestinian people and has become a fashion staple (The Fashionomist is a fan of draping one over a white t-shirt every so often) - hopefully, the keffiyah does not disappear.


*The Fashionomist*

Green Glamour

Earth Day may have been months ago, but eco-friendliness is an everyday practice for many environmentally conscious folks.  It would only take some time for fashion to catch up:  "green glamour," as it's being referred to, was a hit at a recent fashion week in Berlin, which allocated time to two shows devoted to the cause (http://news.yahoo.com/green-glamour-puts-berlin-back-global-fashion-map-175711325.html).

 

What is green glamour?  It is a broad categorization of clothing composed of sustainable textiles or reused fabric, thereby promoting recycling.  Sponsor of the shows (along with grand sponsor Mercedes-Benz), Frankfurt Fair CEO Detlef Braun, gave Reuters a keen insight into the burgeoning industry:  "Sustainability is not a short-term trend, but a great new paradigm."  Indeed, sustainability is one of the keys to economic growth across countries, developed and developing, and has become increasingly prominent in the wake of a devastating worldwide recession.  It also makes for good business, as designers are focusing on creating a brand that is not wholly engaged within itself but interested in showcasing its environmental consciousness, boosting its image across the board.

 

 

Frankfurt Fair cashed in on this trend by showcasing sustainable fashion, feeding into sustainability's current status in high fashion.  What better place to launch green glamour than in the capital of the eco-fashion movement, Berlin, Germany?  Berlin has managed to attract celebrity endorsements and fashion shows focused on green glamour, with some shows mushrooming in popularity. General policy is stringent on the environmental front, and Berliners are quite aware of their environmental footprint while also remaining stylishly so.  Conveniently, Berlin is in the midst of the fashion capitals of London, Milan, and Paris, and is fast becoming a fashion city to reckon with, especially with its unique environmental twist.  With the general fashion industry interested in environmental externalities, green glamour shows are seeing a spike in companies interested in showcasing their goods while also imbibing an environmentally conscious vibe.

 

 

 

The Fashionomist has mixed feelings on green glamour - though she thinks it's a wonderful idea, she is not sure it's something that is simply not currently "trendy."  There are some companies out there producing beautiful designs that reflect the environmental movement and sustainability, but there remain too many near the top that don't care much for such movements and frankly, do not need to.  And as any corporate executive knows, absorbing additional costs during a recession in an industry focused on providing luxury isn't easy, and yet being environmentally aware often requires sacrificing on the profit front.

 

 

 

Nevertheless, green glamour is the direction not only fashion but much of business is heading to.  It is a great concept economically and in a business sense - sustainability is becoming more and more part of the business plan jargon in churning out profit, and is becoming a means by which to connect to cash-strapped consumers, not only for the value they represent but the quality and idea behind being green.  Devoting an entire fashion show to green concepts within fashion will likely heighten eco-friendly-wear appeal, thereby bringing more attention to means by which companies can adopt this thought process in creating items that are good to both the consumer and the planet.

 

 

 

Even better, Berlin Fashion Week has done the magical in making green fashion not look incredibly artsy and hippie, but (gasp!) wearable.  Too often, fashion of a cause feeds into its stereotypical group without broadening its appeal.  It's great that designers are being creative with material and making it into something that the average woman (or model) can wear without seeming "too natural."  And The Fashionomist is never one to say negative things about anything that unites a good cause and fantastic fashion.

 

 What do you think of fashion becoming more eco-friendly?  The Fashionomist is curious to hear your thoughts.

*The Fashionomist*

I See Paris, I See France...

Yet another post on an index?  No, The Fashionomist has not lost her mind.  These indices are interesting, though blatantly unscientific means by which to gauge the economy.  But a fascinating and perhaps convincing index has captured The Fashionomist's imagination.  A couple Sundays ago, The Chicago Tribune had its look back on 2011 so far.  Below the predictable spots on the Japanese earthquake/tsunami, the royal wedding, and Osama bin Laden's death was a curious little tagline:  "The Economy and Underwear."

Apparently, it's not just the girls that can see economic changes via clothing.  Skivvies are (allegedly) an excellent way to judge economic health.  Men tend to put off buying underwear during a recession - after all, not too many are privy to those necessities.  Why splurge on tighty whiteys when you need to put food on the table, pay for astronomically expensive gas, and pay bills?

 

But Hanes's stock price has steadily climbed, showing promise of an economy bouncing back.  Other companies specializing in underwear are reporting similar results, sparking chatter about whether the Underwear Index has kicked into high gear.  Research company Mintel predicted 2013 was the return of underwear sales/bounceback of the economy, but it seems like 2011 is Year of Recovery.

 

The Fashionomist finds this index perhaps a better one than the one she previously favored, the Hemline Index.  Even the economist of all economists, Alan Greenspan, is a fan of the Underwear Index, who told NPR's Robert Krulwich years ago that men's undies are the first to be delayed in restocking when a budget tightens.  Note the entire conversation centers around men's underwear - females tend to not only replace underwear more often but also make more lingerie and other extraneous underwear purchases.  (However, interestingly, bras are an exception to this rule, as women tend to purchase more brassieres as the economy is on an upswing.)

Just another index?  The Fashionomist can't say, but perhaps your underpants will.


*The Fashionomist*

That's a Nail Biter!

Loyal readers of The Fashionomist will recall a previous post I wrote on the hemline index, where hemlines were used as indicators of the overall health of an economy.  Might I introduce you to the nail polish index?

Yes, there is now a nail polish index.  The New York Times posted a debate (http://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2011/06/30/why-did-wild-nail-polish-go-mainstream-10/nail-polish-is-the-new-lipstick) on why it had taken so long for classic reds and pinks to turnover to the latest fashion trend on everyone's fingertips, namely, anti-classic hues such as neons, darks, and unusuals.  Bold nail colors have seen a resurgence, harking back to the beloved 1980s, that time when funky colors were in and anything remotely odd was trendy (thankfully, The Fashionomist spent her awkward growing up years in the '90s).

The author of this article, a nail lacquer chemist, describes two economic phenomena driving the anti-classic trend in nail color.  First, nail polish is an inexpensive way to update your style.  Perhaps a person of modest means (ahem, a graduate student like The Fashionomist?) may fawn over the latest luxury items that hit stores, but realistically, those goods will remain in dreams and never materialize.  A swipe of purple or crackle or whatever suits one's fancy on one's nails, however?  Affordable, quick, on trend, and a pocketbook friendly treat.  Second, celebrities have injected a certain dose of cool in wearing non-ordinary nail polish, particularly our "Teenage Dream," Katy Perry.  Who can forget her manicure sporting Prince William montages in honor of the royal wedding?  Or her shocking blast of neon?  In short, nail polish an economically friendly way to jump on the bandwagon.

 

Personally, The Fashionomist is a bit opposed to the terminology used in describing this trend as an "index."  An index refers to varying degrees in describing a certain phenomena, as the hemline index does.  Switching from standard red to Christmas tree green does not point to an index, per se.  Trend or fad seem more befitting of the nail polish fascination.  Additionally, The Fashionomist thinks the quickness of the author in pointing to the recession as a reason for the popularity of nail polish is a bit hasty.  Nail polish might have had a bit of a spike in popularity and has a new thing for strange colors, but it would be a stretch to say it was ever out of style.

So paint away this 4th of July weekend!  You may just be making an economic statement in addition to your fashion one.


*The Fashionomist*

(In the name of new beginnings, The Fashionomist will be resuming regular posts starting today.  The Fashionomist was beset with a longer-than-anticipated trip abroad and then contracted a delightful little infection, delaying her return to the world of fashionomics.  But fear not, dear reader.  The Fashionomist has been itching to post for awhile now and finds this to be a perfect time to relaunch her online rambling.  Enjoy!  As always, comments/suggestions/constructive criticism are always welcome.)